Days 14-19 in Africa

The weather here was San Diego June Gloom-y at the end of last week and beginning of this week. Each day would start overcast and muggy, the sun would burn through the haze around noon and we'd see some blue skies for about 5 hours before it hazed up again. The past two days, however, have been clear skies but really hot and humid. In spite of the sticky weather, children still are out playing football, and wives and mothers still huddle over steaming pots of rice and yassa, adding spices and stirring the dark brown liquid broth.

Dr. Johnson and I, on the other hand, have been trying to work at our usual break-neck pace, but are finding it increasingly difficult to have energy in the sweltering

heat and stay hydrated. Even so, we have accomplished a lot this past several days:

1. Ambassador's Reception: We were able to meet, and set up a future appointment with the Ambassador.

2. Baptism fete: We were invited by a Bijoutier and his family to join them in the celebration of their son's/grandson's baptism. A white lamb was sacrificed as part of the ceremony, and we were able to sit with the whole family on the floor around huge vats of rice and mouton and eat the wonderfully seasoned stuff with our hands.

3. Interviewed the Bijoutier Oumar and his Uncle Abou who has a son in Ohio!

4. Purchased several incredible pieces for the exhibition. One piece bearing the traditional oiseau design is an exact replica of a piece Dr. Johnson had in a photo of a woman she took back in the 60s. She's hoping to mount the photo directly above the bracelet in the exhibition.

5. Feasted on incredible Chwarma at a local Lebanese family-run restau near the Sandaga market.

Children at the fishing village: Aren't they gorgeous?

Statue in front of La Maison des Esclaves:

Intensely moving

Days 9-13 in an African nutshell

We've had a very busy week this week. It's hard to believe that I've crested the hill of my African adventure and it's downhill from here. A few highlights:
1. Meeting with Ibrahima Thiaw--the head Conserviteur of the IFAN Museum here in Dakar. He was able to help us with research and connected us with the head of the National Archives.
2. Goree round 2: I love that Island. If I were a better fisherwoman I would live there. Since you've had luck in that department Liney, I think you ought to seriously consider it! Madame Crespin's home was a piece of heaven--right on the ocean--absolutely beautiful!
3. Visiting with the authoress Aminata Sow Fall: Remarkable woman and pioneer of women rights and education in Senegal and Saint Louis.
4. Dinner with Charles Becker renowned historian and scholar--some of the best french ragout I've ever tasted, and fresh bananas from his garden for dessert.
5. Playing with the kids at the fishing village near Soumbedioune...Have I mentioned that I want one :)?

Africa is becoming so much a part of me now, I really don't want to think about leaving. I even consulted Mr. Becker about pursuing doctoral studies in African Art at the University in Fann. Unfortunately, he discouraged me...not the best learning environment apparently. I am resolved to find a way back here in the future, and enjoy the last two weeks ahead.

Day 8 in Africa: A few of my favorite things...

1. Fig Jam. Words would completely desecrate the sacred, salivatory, sweetness and goodness of this incredible stuff. When paired with fresh butter and bread it sends you completely a la lune!

2. Incense from the Becker's home and from the Sandaga market.

3. Waking up to call to prayer.

4. Mangos from Mali. I'm pretty sure I never truly had a mango before Africa-- positively mind blowing.

5. Chacos.

6. Beautiful senegalese babies. I want one so badly!

7. Taxis held together by two pieces of scotch tape.

8. Aminata: The Grace Kelly of Senegal--

elegant, refined, and all-around incredible taste.

9. Singing old showtunes with Dr. Johnson as we prepare supper.

10. The beautiful smiles, kind acts, and expressions of gratitude from people who have so little.

Days 6-7 in Africa

It's hard to believe I've only been here one week! I've learned so much and have grown so close to this country already, part of me feels like I was born Senegalaise and have lived here all my life. As I reflect on this past week, I can't help feeling a lot like Dorothy shedding the grays of Kansas for a very colorful OZ. Life before Senegal was very grisaille; I live in color now.

The colors in Africa are truly unbelievable. I feel like people in America are afraid of color, and Africans totally embrace it. Both women and men wear the most vibrant colored ensembles you've ever seen. We went to Sandaga market and were absolutely surrounded by color. We befriended Mouhammed, a young man nearly finished with his masters degree. He was kind enough to take us up to the rooftop of the market to the "restaurants" --small corrugated metal huts --where women wearing traditional dress and sporting some traditional jewelry stooped over steaming pots of couscous and yassa. We were able to get some nice photos and brief interviews with the women. It was a good vantage point from which to really see the hustle and bustle of the marketplace on the weekend.

Yesterday, we boarded a ferry and went to the beautiful Ile Goree. Goree is an island just off the Dakar coast which was used in early colonial days as a major slave trade port. After landing at the dock Dr. Johnson and I headed directly to the Women Museum--a museum that pays tribute to the wonderful women of Senegal. We were able to interview an older woman on the island who had many photos of herself, and members of her family, in traditional dress and jewelry.

For lunch we feasted on jumbo shrimp and Gambas (basically shrimp on steroids) outside at a restaurant just a few feet from the ocean. We spent the rest of the day exploring the island and finding out as much as we could about jewelry from the women we met.